CyclingSite Logo  
Collected Wisdom



  CyclingSite > CO Collected Wisdom > What to Take > Bike Equipment > Lights
    What bike lights should I use and where?  
    On Cycle Oregon -

Lights are really not required unless you are doing evening commutes in the local towns. A simple 4 AA powered 2 watt headlamp should be enough for those instances should you actually attempt to ride after hours. I have an old Vistalight 400 series light for just such occasions but it remains in my gear bag mostly. I also carry a rear flasher, but its main use is marking my campsite at night:-)

Don "you guys shave? I thought this was vacation" Bolton

A note for the out-of-state people –

Oregon state law requires bikes to have at least the following when riding after dark: "a white light visible at least 500 feet to the front, and a red light or reflector visible at least 600 feet to the rear". They also state that a white reflector cannot be substituted for a head light. Also, while not required, a red tail light is more visible than a reflector.

What this means in your life at CO… if you’re going to get up super, super early and leave camp while it is still dark (and a few people do) then you have to bring bike lights and reflectors (or rig up something with your flashlight, etc.). Same deal if you are going to ride around town after dark.

Personally, we haven’t needed them on CO. We wake up while it is still dark, but it is usually about 7 or 8 by the time we hit the road (okay, so we’re slow…)

Rox Heath

After carrying a headlight on a couple of CO's and never using it I don't bother anymore.

Rox Heath

I took one of my headlights on CO last year and regretted wasting my space. I didn't use it once. So if you are planning on taking a front light with you, you might want to re-think it. I didn't see anybody using one. However, a head lamp is a must, but only for the campsite. The headlamps are the best thing for those late night, blue room trips! Does anybody else agree/disagree with this statement?

Stacey Gray

There is another reason for not bringing a bike light.

Cycle Oregon discourages night time riding.

In fact, if you are on the course later than the course closing time (usually 6 pm), they will have you sign a waiver OR sag you into camp.

As to the morning, the course officially opens at 6:30am. However, if you jump the gun (again - this is discouraged), you should have the appropriate lighting on your bike.

Support for CO riders is only available on the course between 6:30am and 6:00pm. If you are out there when the course is closed, you are on your own. It can get lonely if you have trouble.

Curt Coleman

[Editor's Note: The rest of this area concerns serious bike lighting for training and winter riding]

Over the last month I have been able to get out and ride after work under cover of darkness. Aside from being a welcome relief from the countless sessions on the trainer its downright *F*U*N*!

I'd forgotten the pure joy of traversing a country road in the cool night air with almost no traffic. I have tried more than a few lighting configurations and highly recommend using two lights. One 10 watt unit on the handlebar and another 10 watt unit on your helmet.

I recently dug deep and purchased the NiteRider Digital Head Trip and it makes a big difference being able to peer around the 90 degree intersection corners before your wheels find the gravel. Also it seems to aid in motorists actually yielding to you. Seems when you look at them they notice the bright beam and heed your presence. As an added bonus, those pesky dogs stop dead in their tracks when you put the beam in their face. (Dog in headlights) :-)

I used to carry a headband flashlight in my pack for tire changing but the DHT has a three watt "walking mode" (tire changing mode) that will let you see what you are doing while preserving enough juice to make it back post-repair using the 10 watt beam.

This wasn't meant to be a commercial endorsement, but if you are considering a lighting system and taking up night (or pre-dawn) riding, its versatility and long burn times are pretty useful. For me, it's reawakened the joys of night riding.

Don "Flashing on French Prairie" Bolton

Back to Top

..I use 2*10 watts on the front on unlit roads and they are fine! As far a little flashy lights go, I use a regular 5-led on the back of the bike and clip a little flashy thing on my hat...keeps it nice and high.


I'm a bit of a night time weanie, but this is what I've done on my commuter bike:

1. Front headlights: the Performance "Best Buy" headlight system, which includes two lamps (low & high, 35w & 45w), NiMH battery.

2. Two flashing rear lights, attached to the luggage rack. I put them on the left & right, and I use the two different flashing patterns, one on each. These are cheap.

3. A white flashing strobe on the front, helps gets the cagers' attention from the front. Also pretty cheap.

I kinda like Don's idea of a helmet lamp, I'm toying with the notion of getting that as well this fall. I know, it's a tremendous amount of light, but it's only my body and my bike at stake.

Jason Penney

I have a helmet dedicated for night riding. It features a Vistalight "Whale Tail" rear flasher (its a velcro mount so it is removable) and the front DHT. I also have a 7 segment flasher on my Camelback. In the neighborhood little kids go oooh and ahh when I ride by :-)

NiteRider makes a REAL BRIGHT taillight that hooks in line with their headlight units. I spoke with their technical department and their systems use the same plugs, polarity, and voltage as the VistaLight 400, 500, and Nightstick series lighting series, so If you have an older VistaLight system you could include the new bright tailight from NiteRider.

But I do recommend something on the helmet as well as it spreads the area of visual contact out and is more likely to be noticed.

If your commute is largely in town you could go with lower wattage headlights (6 is plenty to *be* seen by) I run 10 watts as out in the country there is little to no ambient light. I need the lights for *me* to see ;-).

Performance has a line of lesser expensive lighting including a helmet mount unit but if you can afford the price tag, the NiteRider Digital series lights offer great features and multiple wattage levels in a single compact unit. Plus the ability to explore the countryside in the dark.

I have ridden with only the Head Trip and that's not bad (better than having just a single bar mounted unit) but you have no forward facing light to be seen by if that's your only light and you are looking to the side. You could go with one of those white/green flashers on the front in lieu of the second light on the bars, however.

Don "make it so they can't help but see ya" Bolton

Check out this supplier of lights for police depts. several choices, some of which are VERY bright.

Greg Thomas

I ride at night with three flashing units.

I use one on each ankle (facing back), using a Velcro strap to hold them in place and one Velcro tab stuck to my helmet (facing forward).

As I ride the units on my ankles attract more attention then stuck stationary on my back or on my bike.

I ride in a rural area that has its fair share on non-attentive drivers and I played with my lighting to get as much notice as possible as I ride.

I picked up some nice flashers at Grand Auto Supply that have three lights inside and a handy clip.

My helmet light is one of the small round units that came from the bike shop.

I also wear yellow non-glare shooters glasses at night. These really help. But only the non glare units are worth having.


Last night's ride got off to a bad start. I made the mistake of answering the phone (Bond measure survey), loose crankarm bolt, and a few unplanned home issues to tend to.

I get out the door at 6:30 PM (had planned to do a 32 mile ride but start at 5:45, oops). Decide to take my usual 18 mile loop. Feeling good along the way I decide to extend to a 24 mile version. At mile 11, miles from any settlements, I turn off River Road on Mahoney road and within several hundred yards hear that sickening hiss of a tire dumping air. Oh darn! (Actually, I expect those of you in Salem and Wilsonville probably heard the string of explicative deleteds I spouted).

Here I am miles from nowhere alone in pitch blackness with a flat, DOH! Several cars drove by, but paid me no heed (nice to know everyone is so concerned out there in nowheresville).

I am pleased to report that the "tire changing" 3 watt mode on the Digital Head Trip allowed me to affect repair and then continue the trip with full brightness!

Ended up doing a 22 mile ride and finished with reserve power to spare. I always let the units burn till the system shuts them down (ensures full recharge and prevents battery memory). I got over two hours thirty minutes burn time between the 10 watt and 3 watt modes. I'm very pleased with the versatility of this lighting system.

Don "think I'll take tonight off" Bolton

I just bought the Night Rider Head Trip digital head light and love it. It is rechargeable, mounts to my helmet, and is bright enough to freeze cars in their tracks. (Well kinda.) I like the helmet mount because it shines where I look, and there are times I want to be sure I'm seen at intersections, so a momentary direct shine gets the driver's attention. It lasts about 1-1/2 hours on high, but has medium and low, which lasts even longer. Unlike a flashlight, it remains full bright until out of juice, not slowly getting dimmer and dimmer. It has a reserve, which automatically switches you to low beam after about 1-1/2 hours, when it is running out of juice. This burns for about 30 minutes. They are kinda spendy, but I think it is well worth it. I've used the other types for commuting and general night riding, and never felt very safe. This definitely boosts the security level, and extends the riding season. Combined with a decent rear blinking red, I have not had any problems. Definitely worth checking out!


Back to Top

Have you used your Head Trip light in fog yet? I used a head mounted lamp last winter and got some really eerie results due to the light source being so close to my eyes. (If I held the light at waist level or at arms length, the view was crystal clear.)


Not yet, but fireplace smoke makes a nice haze at times. It is exactly like you describe the fog affect. Might be something to watch for. I think there is a handle bar mount available for this light. I might need to check it out.


Got up at 5:30AM, cats are still alive, puppies, wife asleep. Coffee is good. Is foggy, wet, cold. Ride at 10:00, IN DAYLIGHT! Is riding in the wee hours of the morning, with lights, such a glorious thing? I am sorely tempted but am wondering about the $outlay for the required lights. Suggestions? As I said, I ride on narrow, country roads and some of them have no shoulder or very narrow shoulders and the traffic is bad in the morning. They move very fast, and some of them are driving very fast to get to the expresso before getting to work.

Donald Lockridge

Well Donald, riding in the dark is a very different experience. Your attention is focused into a very small area, that is to say, the area of the road illuminated by your light(s). This sometimes requires very quick reactions as you encounter road hazards and you feel as though you are traveling faster than you really are. As I've mentioned recently, I use a mountain bike to commute to work and my route includes about 8 miles of trails. Trail riding, specially technical stuff is really interesting in the dark. Response times must be very fast. Being in a dark forest with only a headlight is an experience in itself and darn near scary when the light goes out.

As for riding on a busy road in the early morning dark, my best suggestion is lots of lights and reflectors. You and I both know that drivers are half asleep as they drive to work. Most of my "close encounters" have been in early morning traffic on dark mornings. In fact, I've altered my commuting route to completely avoid main roads. I believe it's important to ride aggressively in traffic. I demand my share of the road and I let drivers know when they've come too close to me.

As for lighting systems, this subject has been covered earlier this year. My opinion is that you should spend at least $150. The more lights the better. Ideally, dual bar mounted lights, one 10 amp and one 15 amp as well as a helmet mounted light. Mount one flashing tail light on the rear and one more on your back. Also wear lots of reflective clothing.

I don't have all of that, it gets pretty expensive. I do know however that it is difficult for people to judge size, distance and vector on an object with only one reference point (that being a single light).

Riding in the dark is a whole different experience. I think a good adjective is "lonely".

Steve "who let the dogs out? woof, woof woof-woof" Heim

Because I have very different riding habits, I find that my high-performance headlight is far more valuable than most of those other fancy doo-dads. Most of my miles are commute miles, and even in the summer I find myself going home after dark. I did this for awhile using a cheap-o light, until I received my Performance NMH water-bottle battery and single (12 watt wide- beam I think) headlamp. Now it ranks right up there with my cycle computer and Vaude back-pack as items I never want to have to do without.

Don Gross

David is commuting in the rain and dark.

His little cat eye is no longer enough. What should I get him? I am thinking of the "View Point" with a NiMH battery. Any points of view out there?

Amy Graham

Sorry to hear of David's petite mono-ocular physical challenge, but on the other hand, there are benefits to nocturnally enhanced visual acuity.

In a more serious vein ...

I have this same light. It was an upgrade from the 2-C-cell style light. Compared to the old light, I absolutely love it. The light-weight battery is nice. A dual-beam system might be a nice improvement, so I could see farther in front. I have the single-beam with the smaller amp-hour battery.

I've had three problems I can think of:

1) When I first got the light, I performed the required 24-hour (I think) charge, and it worked great. I then started my short (8-hour) charge after every ride. It was working great until I was on my third 45 minute commute and the light went dead! That was how I learned you have to cycle the line voltage. Unplug the charger to get it to switch from trickle-charge to its high-current charge mode.

2) The water-tight contact is quite tough to disconnect. This is a good thing, but the connector is quite close to the body of the light. In the process of disconnecting to plug on the charger, I pulled the wires apart inside the light, and shorted the battery. The battery survived, and after disassembly and some rather difficult re-wiring, so did the light. It's been working ever since, I'm sure at least in part due to my more gentle handling.

3) The connector became intermittent shortly after I started using it, and I couldn't charge it reliably. I borrowed a clip-on current probe and a meter at work (hall-effect for you techno-types), and always monitor the charge current. (Not an option most people will have available to them (:-). Awhile back I sprayed the contact with some contact cleaner (also compliments of my work in electronics) and its been quite reliable ever since (although largely out of paranoia I still monitor the charge current!).

I suppose the smart thing would have been to get at least the last problem resolved under warranty, but I've had some less-than-pleasant times doing that sort of thing.

Don "still haven't made the winter commute transition" Gross

Back to Top

Yep. I'm the gadget guy, gotta try everthin’ that comes along.

I have three complete dual fixture lighting systems :-( Several years of trial and error saving money by buying the cheaper stuff and experiencing dissatisfaction.

Vistalight 400 and also 500 series. 400 is bulky, doesn't cast a long beam of light. Good for seeing detail over a wide area close in, small bulb easy to replace carries spare inside housing.

500 series has the HOT bulb, good long beam of light, narrow field of view, spares are bulky and must be carried on person, very hot operating temp, fixtures prone to breakage.

>From an affordability standpoint the Viewpoint has a better pricepoint than VistaLight or Nite Rider and a 10 watt helmet mount light is a wonderful thing to use no matter who makes it.

I now run the digital Nite Rider head trip and Nite Owl (one on helmet and one on bike). Both are Night Rider Digital 6 volt systems. The new models (2002) come equipped to use in either mode. I *swear* by these lights. With an almost 3 hour burn time at the 10 watt setting and a less than 5 hour auto stop charging system they are hard to beat (if you can afford them). The chargers are available separately as well.

Both have three primary brightness settings, 6,10, and 15 watts. But its big feature is a menu of signaling modes (SOS, warning beacon, bright ass blinker, and 3 watt walking (tire changing) modes).

I use two lights, one helmet and one bar mount in case of bulb failure and have been forced to use the tire changing mode at one time. (the reduced power consumption gives plenty of light to work by and saves power for the brighter lighting when back on route).

If you do go the Viewpoint I strongly recommend helmet mount, get him a small "headlamp" like we use in camp for flat repair (to save his riding battery power) and keep the Cat Eye as a "hobble home" backup. You can carry a spare bulb, but the used one stays hot for quite awhile and you still need to see to replace it.

Oh yeah. I have a rear blinker on my Camelback and a "whale tail" blinker on the rear of my helmet too..

Night riding with proper lighting is a blast!

Don "electric pedalman" Bolton

Hi Amy,

I have a night rider headlight/battery combo, and I just bought the tail light kit for it. Pricey, but really BRIGHT! It has a steady light, or blinking feature. The ratio of brightness is the same as the difference between a C-cell headlight and the 15 watt night rider headlight. I figured in the dark and the rain, I need all the help I can get.

Phil Ford

I use the VistaLite 520, a single lamp, 10 watt rig. The battery pack (Nicad) can hang on the top tube or go in my fanny pack (preferred by me). I've had cars flash their brights at me. My commute is about 15 minutes each way so I can recharge about once a month. A helmet mount is available, but I haven't use it yet.

I also use a red VistaLite flasher for the rear and strap a white strobe on the outside of my left arm. The folks at work who pass me in the final blocks before the campus say that they can see me blocks away, looking like a 747. I complete my "look" with ankle bands made of the reflective material seen on fire fighter's turn out gear.

"Do it in the dark!"


> I've had cars flash their brights at me.

Are you sure you didn't have your lamp adjusted too high? A good light is nice, but blinding oncoming vehicle operators can be detrimental to ones health. This is one reason why I'm not a fan of helmet mounted lights. People with these will often look at the oncoming object, be it auto or cyclist, and flash the lights directly in the eyes of operator. I've been blinded by this setup myself while riding my bike, it's very effective. Kind of defeats the purpose.

Be safe,

I couple of years ago I got a Performance brand (ViewPoint) dual light system, with a floodlight that is always on, and a spotlight that one can turn on for the particularly dark parts of the ride.

I chose a system that used a lead-acid battery, because several years of using NiCd batteries on other devices made be wary of them in applications in which one recharges the battery frequently.

I commuted with these lights for that winter -- I was in Palo Alto at the time and had no car, and the bike lights were like daylight compared to what I had used for the previous 20 years: various different kinds of battery and generator lights, some automatically switching from one power source to the other. None, before the ViewPoint set, had ever really let me see where I was going. Lighting is one area where technology has really advanced.

This particular light set I would not recommend, because it comes with a junk charger. Lead-acid batteries need to be trickle-charged once they are up to the right voltage, and I don't believe that the charger supplied with these lights drops the voltage appropriately. Consequently, the batteries last only a season; leaving the battery on charge for an extended period kills it. Fortunately, new batteries can be obtained cheaply from

Just before I went to Switzerland I bought a NiteRider Digital Headtrip, based largely on Don "the Wheel" Bolton's recommendation. I also bought the elastic headband, so that one can wear it for walking and camping chores without a helmet, and a handlebar mount. I found this set greatly discounted on a Website while searching for saddles, and I'm really happy with it. The battery is a high-tech type that is the size and weight of a pack of playing cards, and easily goes in a jersey pocket. I have also surprised myself by liking the helmet-mounted light, since it points where I am looking. I have not found a use for any of the fancy flashing modes, but like the digital "fuel gauge". On a bar-mounted light, this would be even more useful.

I think that for best results one should use both a bike mounted light so that cars see one coming, and a helmet mounted light so that one can see the holes and the rocks in the road. The NiteRider rear light is something that I don't have, but would recommend if you have the extra $50. I simply use two of the alkaline-cell powered lights: a steady light on my bike, to comply with the law, and a flasher on my helmet, to be more conspicuous, and to provide some redundancy. A bright yellow Illuminite jacket completes my winter riding gear.

Andrew Black

Back to Top

I am going to second a recommendation. I love my ViewPoint duals with a NiMH battery. Traffic regards me as the slowest motorcycle in creation. Even overtaking vehicles give me a lot of room when they pass!

Jason Penney

The Viewpoint lights sound pretty good for the money .. I've heard of a few people having problems with them out of the box, but fortunately their return policy is pretty good. Just make sure to test-ride it right away after you charge up the battery for the first time. I think as long as you get a major brand (Cateye, NiteRider, TurboCat, Performance, etc.) and get at least 10W equivalent, you can't go too far wrong.

I agree with the others who have said commuting in dark rainy conditions is reasonably safe ... as long as you make a good effort to be visible, and you're riding somewhere that traffic isn't extremely fast or heavy, or at least there's plenty of room for them to pass you.

I commute with two 5-LED taillights on the seatpost and a 3-LED helmet taillight. Having more than one unit is nice because if the batteries die in one, you've got backup. In front, I have a 10W TurboCat on the handlebars, a white LED on the fork. I just added a Petzl Tikka 3-LED climber's headlamp strapped to my helmet, which works better than I expected.

If I had to set up my lighting system all over again and could only have one front light, I'd probably buy something helmet-mounted. I love being able to "aim" my helmet and get the attention of a driver who hasn't noticed my presence (don't worry, my helmet light is not NEAR bright enough to blind anyone).

Then of course there's all the yellow clothing and reflective stuff. A reflective strap on your left arm is nice for making your turn signals visible. As you know Amy, I've also yellow tape all over my fork, crankarms, seatstays, and helmet too. Hey, I didn't get the nickname "glow boy" on CO for nothing.

Dan Wright

One of my co-workers pointed me to an interesting product. This is a very intense LED light with a head strap. I'm hoping it can be used as a helmet light. They state that a bicycle mount, for use as a headlight or taillight, is "coming soon". It's designed to be used as a headlamp, handheld flashlight, or table lamp. In the hyper-bright setting, they claim 6 hours of light using 3 AA (alkaline, I think) batteries.

This thing weighs 103.6 grams w/o batteries, 176.6 grams w/ 3 AA Alkaline batteries. Now, if they would just make the batteries separate from the light, I'd really be happy ...

Web site is: and the product is the Photon Fusion.

There's a good, on-going review of this thing at: This is also a good place to go to check out other LED headlamps on the market - there are reviews of six others, as well a slew of LED flashlights.

Anyone got any experience with these things?

BTW, I just got back from Lakeside Bicycle Shop's Customer Appreciation sale, and my one purchase was a Specialized Fireballs lighting system. This includes a helmet mount for the dual-beam headlight, plus a bunch of other accessories. I bought it for the helmet mount, but it remains to be seen whether I'll be willing to put up with all the weight. At any rate, it seemed like too good a deal to pass up at only $85 with a taillight thrown in.

Don "triple-eyed alien" Gross

I followed up some of the links to other LED headlamps, and they looked interesting. Then, I picked up the REI sale catalog that came yesterday, and lo and behold, there were a couple of the Petzl headlamps. Guess I just haven't been paying attention.

Anyway, I believe the Photonlight Fusion is a brighter product, and might be a better product to use on a helmet. I guess the headlamp portion does disconnect from the battery housing, but there is apparently no interconnect cable that would allow one to mount only the lamp to the helmet and carry the battery in a jersey pocket or backpack.

Don Gross

It seems you are leaning towards the helmet mount. I currently have a handlebar-mounted single beam Niterider - about 4 years old - that I am very happy with. I think the handlebar mount has an advantage over the helmet, in that the light is always steadily focused where my wheels are headed, even if I am glancing elsewhere. My better half, being the male techie that he is, wants to go whole hog and get the fanciest new, dual beam, high intensity, quick charging, blah, blah blah, that costs almost as much as a mortgage payment. :-) I think we will end up someplace in the middle.

Susan Otcenas

I have not heard of any LED lighting devices which are powerful enough to cast light out onto the road so the user can see the road. They may exist. LED lights are, however, sufficient to allow you the user to be seen by others, ie cars. PERHAPS you have found a newer, more powerful device. Keep us informed.

Your Specialized Fireballs were touted to have some very state-of-the-art features. These included a higher voltage battery which is electronically regulated to a lower and constant voltage. This allows the bulbs to run at the correct voltage for an extended period of time, not gradually dimming as the voltage declines. The same electronic control allows a soft start greatly extending the bulbs lifespan. The charger was also said to be state of the art allowing recharging of partially discharged batteries and automatically shutting off when full charge had been reached.

HOWEVER, despite all these desirable features, EVERY user review I read about these lights were extremely negative. Batteries on the shelf going dead in days, very short lighting durations, yellowish beams, batteries dying and refusing to charge. NOW all these shortcomings may have been corrected with this years model, I don't know. The designer no longer works for Specialized. Don't want to bring you down. Good Luck. Let us know.

Incidentally the info above was gleaned from the Bike Current newsgroup, which is focused on bicycle lighting.


I use a Black Diamond LED headlamp (similar to the Petzl, with four LED's instead of the Petzl's three) for camp, ski emergency, etc. Wouldn't suggest it as a bike light due to lack of intensity. The Photonlight Fusion looks interesting as it appears to have a lot more intense beam. I look forward to finding out more about it.

Mark "my 2 cents worth" Ramsby

Back to Top


As you ride in town and have lots of ambient light available your solution. (on bars) is likely suitable.

Out here in the valley where 'lektisity is limited and there’s lots of deserted dark roadways, I've found BOTH a helmet mount and a bar mount essential.

Intersection corners in pitch blackness are blind with a bar mount light (10 to 15 watt) suitable for riding in the blackness. Helmet mounts allow you to visually sweep the corner ahead to choose your line while the bar mount allows one peripheral sighting of road hazards while doing so.

The Digital Head Trip and Nite Owl have been replaced by a single unit that comes with both a helmet and a bar mount. I've the older separate units. The Headtrip has multiple brightness settings and I ride it at 10 watt for a bright but several hour duration burn. Its 3 watt power saver mode however is useful for the act of flat repair in the dark leaving enough juice to continue your ride with full brightness.

Yeah, I think that new Halide Arc unit looks really appealing, but the 400 dollar price tag leaves me asking "only one?":-) I'll wait for that technology to mature and lower in price, thank you.

Don "LED's have a bit more to go I think" Bolton

Thanks for the info. My desire for a helmet-mounted light has been generated by opinions I've read on this list. I already have a good handlebar-mounted single-beam powered by a nickel-metal-hydride water-bottle sized battery. It works great. Now I'm primarily looking to increase my visibility to motorists, and like the idea of being able to point the light at the vehicles when it appears they may not be seeing me.

If the helmet light happens to be bright enough to stand on its own, that would be a real plus, in terms of providing redundancy.

I'm anxious to get my new Fireballs fired up, and see how they work. What you said would make a lot of sense, based on the "great deal" I got. I suspect the bad reviews, valid or not, are responsible for the large price discount. I also suspect these are probably not "new and improved" models, but are likely to suffer some or all of the maladies you mentioned. Time will tell ...

Don "looking for that free lunch" Gross


If you only have one light, I think the handlebar mount is probably the way to go. I do think the remote-battery, 10 to 15 watt single beam should be considered the minimum. solution. I commuted for a year or two with one of those cheesy 2-C-cell handlebar lights and survived, but it's really not a very smart thing to do. I would say that as long as your Niterider is working reliably, stick with it. Maybe add some additional blinking taillights or one of the LED headlamps to increase your visibility to everyone around you.

Don "semi-dim bulb" Gross

2 additional comments

1. Helmet mount vs Bar Mount.. If all you have is one light a bar mount would probably be better. I like the helmet mount as it gives you the option of seeing what is going on around you; i.e. as Mr Bolton says... See around the corner.

2. A source for LED's is They have all sorts of products including a very nice vest with LEDs.

Just my opinion, worth about as much as you paid for it.


    Back to Top  
  Page Last Updated: Jan. 20, 2003  
    CyclingSite > CO Collected Wisdom > What to Take > Bike Equipment > Lights  

Copyright 2003, Artist's Touch or by original content developer.

CyclingSite Home Page General Info Photo Album Lists & Articles CO at a Glance CO Collected Wisdom CO History Bike Rides Stories & Humor Guest Book Collected Wisdom Home Page Back Up Next Site Map Insights Touring Info On the Road Cycling Concerns In Camp Other Services What to Take Bikes C. Computers Fenders Gearing Lights Mirrors Noise Makers Pedals, Etc. Pumps, Etc. Saddles Tires Tire Liners Camp Equipment Clothes What Else? How to Pack Training Miscellaneous Info